Nothing about politics today, thank goodnes. Popping up to Morecambe – all the way up in Lancashire? Nearly at the Lake District? Really? We visited the town in September 2025, as part of our great Road Trip to the North. We stayed at the Art Deco icon, The Midland Hotel, and had vowed to return, partly because we were so struck by the views from the hotel across the sands of Morecambe Bay to the hills of the Lake District, and partly because we wanted to visit the historic Winter Gardens, which are undergoing restoration. You can read about our earlier visit to Morecambe here.
Philosopher and Battleaxe travelled up from Hastings on the train. It wasn’t actually too bad. Up to London Bridge, then a very fast train from Euston, which rushed all that way up-country in just over two hours. Then, just ten minutes on a little train from Lancaster to Morecambe, and a short walk to the hotel. We were checking-in just after two-thirty.
We didn’t have such an expensive room this time, but it was still enormous, with three sea-view windows. I tell you, the views across the bay from that hotel are just magnificent – looking across to the Lake District with the ever-changing perspective of hills. The view changes with the movement of the sun, and of course, with the weather. The Midland Hotel is probably the only place where these views are so good, there are other sea-front hotels in the town, but some will be run-down and others won’t have the open view.
The hotel was built as a railway hotel, who knew, and opened in 1933. It is a splendid building, with some of the original art works still in place, including several pieces by Eric Gill, who of course is now a deeply controversial and divisive figure. Controversial and divisive or not, we did feel the hotel could have had a leaflet available which described the architecture and the art works. Originially, the walls of the Rotunda Bar were decorated by Ravilious, but unfortunately the plaster deteriorated. The work was clumsily restored a few years ago. Here is information about the Eric Gill works.
Poor Morecambe is so desperately run-down – it makes Hastings look like Knightsbridge. Whole streets of empty shops, derelict buildings… but transformation might be coming. Work is due to start on the Eden Project of the North, on a derelict site right next door to the hotel, on 24 June… Look, I know these schemes are readily hyped-up and often don’t happen, but am praying that this one actually materialises, for Morecambe’s sake. Here is an article about it. For all the evident deprivation, we spent much time watching very cheerful people enjoying the sun on the promedade, which is very long, very flat and very scenic. Lots and lots of dogs playing ball on the seemingly limitless sands, and generally having a good time.
When we first arrived at the hotel there was a bit of noise from downstairs – a party in one of the bars. Those Art Deco builders were great on looks, but not so good on insulation – the sound travelled right through the hotel. Still, it stopped about seven and we had peaceful times from then onwards. However, looking at the history of the hotel, in its hey-day in the 30s it was clearly a party place – stars who had appeared at the Winter Gardens would stay there, and party until the small hours. We ate in the hotel most meal-times – the food is good and reasonably priced, but they have adopted a supposedly hip method of everyone having to order everything at the bar. I’d rather have waiter service than having to queue up. Still, we could eat looking at the views…
We went for various pretty walks, including along the sea-front to visit a crazy bookshop I had read about.. It is massive, and totally chaotic – the Old Pier Bookshop.
On Sunday we had booked a tour of the Winter Gardens, which has a prominent position on the sea-front.
Battleaxe readers will know that Philosopher and Battleaxe love old Victorian buildings, and this enormous theatre/music hall, built in 1895, was too good to miss. We had a really interesting tour led by knowledgable volunteer Peter. He took us all through the innards of the building, from top to bottom, and it was evident what a massive restoration job faces the volunteers. Here are lots of photos…
Right at the top, in what remained of the Gods Bar, we saw this. Our guide wasn’t really able to explain why material relating to the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra was there. The photo in the middle is a signed pic of Gustav Holst. Elgar conducted works there, but still… Ah well, life is full of mysteries… like what a few crazy Labour MPs currently think they are doing. Oh don’t get onto that. I’ve made a complaint to the BBC about Chris Mason…
